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Nikon SB-600 Flash AC/DC power modification

Doing product photography without a dedicated set of strobes is a bit restrictive. Using a flash like the Nikon SB-600 can do wonders, especially with a remote setup and a soft box. I thought it was a bit of a waste to use up all these batteries while in the studio and shooting with ample access to power sockets, with that in mind I decided to do something a bit risky and possibly crazy. I don’t know how long the flash will last now that I have done this modification, if the internal capacitors will overload and explode, or they’ll just keep running as usual, your guess is as good as mine. I’m no electronics expert either, so this was completely done at my own risk and will void all warranties. I do not recommend you do this, you could be seriously injured, so with that in mind, this information comes with no warranty and is strictly a documentation of my findings. I will not accept any liability for damages as a result of this information.

I luckily had a variable output power adapter kicking around, this can be set in the ranges of 1.5V to 12V @ 500mAh with multiple steps in between. Considering the Nikon SB-600 runs on four 1.5V AA (6V total) batteries at varying mAh’s, I thought this AC adapter was a good fit.

On the bottom side of the SB-600 where the hot shoe adapter is are four screws. I started by taking these out. Once the screws are removed the entire plate attached to the hotshoe will pop off. You will see a circuit board and a sheet of copper attached to a plastic film, this is rigid plastic and acts as a ground. The black cable attached to the copper is quite fragile and I actually broke it off twice meddling around with things, so making sure this is always connected is a good thing. I cut away some of the plastic since it covers the positive and negative solder points where I soldered the positive and negative wires from my power adapter to. It was much easier than I suspected, so easy I was expecting some explosion once I plugged it in. I broke the small tab of plastic off from the top of the battery door cover, this allowed the newly soldered cable to neatly come out of the flash. I suppose I should have soldered an actual power socket where I can plug the power adapter to for easy disconnect, but I didn’t have any on hand. This would be a great future add-on.

I ran tests on the voltage when the batteries were installed and the flash was off, when the flash was in a “ready” state waiting to be triggered, and when it was discharged. The most amount of power, possibly due to the battery type, was 4.8V, when discharged it drops to 0V and loads back up. Knowing this, I plugged the power adapter in with the newly soldered connection to the SB-600 at the lowest setting, 1.5V. I slowly worked my way up, finding 4.5V to be the most efficient with the least amount of humming, but 6V being the fastest with a moderate amount of hum. The higher the voltage, the quicker the refresh. You can fire off multiple flashes in sequence, up to 10 in a row until the flash capacitors need to refresh itself. When you leave it idle it goes into standby as usual. It works with the batteries too, but you still have a power adapter hanging off, again, a disconnect connection would be ideal.

There’s not much more too it, I’m sure other flashes would work in a similar fashion, but perhaps the positive/negative terminals may not be as easily accessible as the Nikon SB-600 was. I would have tested with a cheap garage sale flash, but I just went all in on this one. Now I have a studio strobe made from a Nikon SB-600. Should it ever explode or fail I will update this posting with details and possibly photos.



About Fabrizio Pilato

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  1. My Sb600 works prefectly. But I done other thing. As you can see – near hot shoe you have two contacts. It’s for external autofocus adapter. I don’t have it and don’t know who use it. I connect it to + and – from battery pack and now I have sb600 without any additional wires.When need – I connect it )

  2. Very strange that it is not possible to buy original or third party AC adapters even for the flashes that have an external power connector. So I guess I’ll have to do your trick on my nissin di866 to. Thanks for describing this.

  3. did it ever explode?

  4. Jefferywtucker

    How fast is the recycle time. Shooting sports at 5 FPS. Can this set up keep up with that many exospores? Thanks

  5. That unregulated power supply is a real risk. If you measured the voltage output you could be in for a nasty surprise. You can’t rely on the labeled voltage on those cheap supplies and I’ve often seen the real output be double what’s printed. The voltage also swings wildly depending on the current draw and it’s easy to accidentally move the switch. If you can find a regulated supply in the range of 4.8-6.0 volts you will be much better off. One good and very low cost source would be the supply that’s included with a USB hub. Otherwise, we’ll be looking forward to that post-mortem report you promised. 😉

    • This adapter has a chip that modulates DC output, so it should be relatively safe so long as the switch doesn’t get flipped to 12V :) A cheap and easy solution would be to glue gun it in place. The voltage was very constant when measured.

  6. thanks for sharing

  7. Something like this. There is plugs to be attached to cabel as well.http://img-asia.electrocomponents.com/catimages/R478352-01.jpg

  8. Wonderful solution!
    I suppose a audio/speaker conection could be of use. Because of the low voltage it would do. There is one bigger nib and one smaller so you can’t mix up positive and negativ connections.

  9. Why not just rig up the battery compartment with dowels and connect that to an AC adapter?

    • I’ve done that with other devices, it takes a bit more time to get them to fit just right. This terminal was very accessible so I gave it a go.

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